Dashboard Question

Now that I have the windshield out and getting ready to paint the opening and surrounding area (I'm not painting the whole car yet), I decided to paint the dash top section. To remove the window, I had to take here top portion of the dash out. To do this, just remove the four screws near the window, then remove the chrome trim above the gauges and across the dash. There are several screws behind the chrome and the top section comes right out. Doing this also gives an almost unfettered access to everything.

I said all that to ask this basic question: Is the dash supposed to shiny or semi- gloss? It is the same color as the rest of the dash, but having been exposed to the sun for 53 years, it is now semi- gloss to almost flat, but no rust.

I want to paint this while I have it out, so if anyone knows, I would appreciate any input.

Chad

Chad…..it's suposed to be flat to prevent glare. It also has a slight even texture if you rub your hand across it. While you have the top off, paint the underside white or bright silver. You'll thank me the next time you crawl under there, back on the floor, feet on the seat back, part in one hand, screwdriver in the other, and flashlight in your mouth. The reflection makes things easier the see……John

John- you are the man! Thank you. I had a suspicion that it was flat or near flat, but they pictures I. 've seen posted on the Internet, show it as shiny. More than likely someone either didn't know or wanted to paint it glossy. I'm going to paint it the correct flat or maybe semi-gloss.

I love the idea of doing the underside white or silver! Excellent suggestion. I will do just that. Of course, if anything needs to be done, say with the radio or items up high, I will just remove the top of the dash. It only took me five minutes to figure out and another five to remove it.

Gotta love older cars....no plastic clips or parts to break trying to remove them! I broke a tab on the door of my 2012 GMC Sierra, removing the power window switch cover while installing the towing mirrors. I took it to the dealer and told them it was already broken when I took it off. They replaced it under warranty!!

Anyway, thanks for info...no back to work painting the body color on the opening!

Chad

John is exactly right about the dash not being shiny. When I first got my 59 I mistakenly tried to polish up my dash thinking it was terribly faded. Eventually I learned that it was intentionally not shiny because of glare control. During restoration my paint man thought I was crazy when I directed him to put a satin/flat finish on the dash. Made him a believer afterwards though. Interestingly though, at first glance a lot of people think the dash is padded. I like the look.

I painted it the same color as it was, which is the same as the lower dash and the garnish moulding around the window (Dark Silver Metallic). The supplier couldn't get it flat enough, so I used some left over flat clear and sprayed it with that. I just carefully wet sanded the dash with 1500 before clearing. It turned out really nice. it is flat, but the metal flake really stands out under the flat clear.

Also, at johns suggestion, I painted the underside with bright white (leftover from a Chevy 210, years ago). It does make a difference when working under the dash with a flashlight or a work light. I would recommend flat though, since the glare, when hit just right will temporarily blind you. He He.

The window is in and all the stainless trim has been polished. I had to sandblast the clips and cad plate them, since they were rusty, but in great shape. All the garnish moulding screws have been replaced with the exact sizes in stainless.

I ordered new door weatherstrip, lower cowl gutter drains and the door "J" drip rubber.

Chad…..glad your able to get back to working on the Blue Bomber. If anyone gives a rat's ass, those screws for the garnish moldings are referred to as "Jackson head" screws. Auto manufactures were fond of using them for interior trim for many years. They are normal shaft sized sheet metal screws, with the next size down heads: i.e. #10 screw with #8 head, #8 screw with #6 head etc. I don't know why they used them except that, they wanted the holding power of a large screw, with the unobtrusiveness of a smaller head. Either that, or the engineers back then thought "let's see if we can mess up the minds of the people that may try to restore these cars 50 years from now." I think their rolling in their graves laughing at us……John

John- I know what you mean about the screws...they were meant to screw with your mind when hunting for new ones. Fortunately I have a collection of them from a dealer who was selling his NOS parts. I bought the whole lot of screws in various sizes and a ton of speed nuts for the trim and emblems.

The screws I replaced with stainless were the exterior ones for the wiper valance and the lower windshield trim clips as well as the four screws holding the dash near the window.

I meant in the earlier post to clarify which ones were replaced with stainless. Like John pointed out, those Jackson Head screws are some weird pieces of engineering, luckily I have enough to do about 3 more cars, they were a good purchase and also used by Chrysler I believe.

I'm going to get back on the window sticker, when I finish up my honey- do list. I need to anyway, I feel bad at the slow progress........

Chad

I speak too late, but little use to others.

Here are two extracts from " Pontiac Service Craftsman New"