Oil capacity

I read that our oil capacity was 5 quarts. I have 5 quarts in my motor but I don't show anything on the dip stick. Could it be because I poured some in the filter and since I haven't started it it hasn't all circulated? I'm gunna put another quart in to make sure.

5 quart pan and 1 more quart for filter.

starchief_59 :
As shown on page 23 of the 1959 Owners Guide, there is a two quart difference between the FULL and ADD marks on the oil dip stick. However, I learned back in 1959 with my new Bonneville that the oil level would quickly drop mid-way between the marks and stay there until the next oil change. It was pointless to add a quart half way between FULL and ADD because that added quart would soon disappear and the stick would again show ONE quart low but if I let go to one quart low it would stabilize there until the next change. You might look for this on your engine.

When I change oil and filter I dump in 6 quarts and it shows right at 1/2 on the dipstick. And never moves.

I need to change my oil + filter for the first time. I wonder what oil quality/type you use. I'm planning to use the same as for my other cars, since i get a good bargain on 20 l cans (1l is a close to a quart i think). I use a fully synthethic 10 W30...
It might be a little thin, but it has exelent lubrication compared to the oils that was available then..

59vista:
From all I have read in the various forums, etc. I conclude that synthetic oil is
not recommended for our older vintage engines. However, there is a problem with the petroleum based oils of today, the formulations have been changed to benefit todays engines, the vast majority of which have roller cam lifters. Mainly, the zinc and phosphorus compounds have been eliminated or reduced to trace values because they reduce the life of catalytic converters. (The EPA mandated 100,000 mile converter life by 2004, 120,000 by 2007, and 150,000 by 2009.) Our engines have flat lifters and the lack of those extreme pressure additives causes increased wear in our lifters and cams. At this point there are multiple opinions as to which oil to use in our engines, some even favor diesel oil. As for me, I favor an additive that restores the desired compounds. For those that might like to research this I recommend looking at:
www.zddplus.com

I've been told to usea zinc additive. New oils don't have zinc in them anymore and our old motors need the zinc. I was told you can get it at GM dealerships.

My engine builder told me to break my motor in with conventional 10w30 and when it's broken in use valvoline synthetic.

I just stumbled across this post from august and it just so happens I got a brochure from Ames on this very subject in my last order.
I have attached pictures of the brochure and if you download it and zoom in you should be able to read it thru. Basically what it says is by adding a 4oz bottle of this stuff it returns the proper levels of zinc and phosphors to your oil change that it would have had pre-OBDII oils. It sounds right. I woder if it's true?

The information from Ames is absolutely correct. Newer oil formulations are almost devoid of zinc and phosphorus compounds. I say "almost" because they have naturally occuring trace levels, but not enough to be useful for an older engine. As far as using synthetic oil in an older motor, I would advise against it. It depends if the motor has been rebuilt. This makes a difference because of the newer technology regarding replacement parts, i.e. rings, bearings, valve guides and seal. If you (or a builder) are using N.O.S. parts, then I would shy away from using synthetic oil altogether. The best oil I have used and still do to this day for my vintage cars and trucks, of which are near original and not restored (yet) is Shell Rotella T. It is technically a diesel oil, but is available in just about every viscosity formula you might need and can be used in gasoline engines as well. It contains the right amount of Zinc, phosphorus as well as other essential vitamins and minerals an older, seasoned motor needs. Some of my engines that ran "conventional" off the shelf oil would have a "metallic" sheen to it when drained from the pan. After switching to Rotella T many years ago, the problem has almost been eliminated. I have heard both sides of the argument about using/ not using synthetics versus fossil oil. Cost is not a factor because it is the same for both oils anyway. If you figure (according to the proponents) even though synthetic is more expensive each change, it is said it lasts longer. Do a little math about cost/frequency of changes (3mos./3000 miles {reg. oil}vs. 5mos./5000 miles {synth. oil}) between the two, it is the same.

I used synthetics in my 07 hemi since I bought it brand new. On a used vehicle I wouldn't switch to synthetics.

I'm not saying there is anything wrong with synthetics at all. Newer engines are designed to run on both oils. One thing you should never do is mix the two, unless you use a synthetic blend. It has been advised by ASE against using synthetic oil in older high mileage engines because it can excelerate premature wear and cause leaks to occur where there was none before. I have a 2009 GMC Sierra Z71 4X4, that has conventional oil in it and I have no reason to switch. The oil is changed every 3000 miles and is as clear as when it was put in. Would I extend the intervals between changes just because it's clean? NO. I follow the OEM mandates regarding maintenance to the letter. I won't change what I put in my engine just because I saw something on T.V. or what the Jones' use it.

Ok, well I have a question for you

How come oil companies recommend 3,000-3,500 mile oil change intervals but Chevy owner's manuals say 5,000 and VW manuals say 10,000?

I ran Royal Purple or Amsoil in my 07 hemi ram since about 6000 miles. I changed the oil every 5000-6000 even though the synthetics are designed to last 7500. I'm not comfortable leaving any oil in longer than that

They are just that, recommendations. It also has alot to do with the type of oil originally put in the engine at the factory. VW apparently uses full synthetic, while Chevrolet uses a variety of oil depending on the model. Corvettes have full synthetic, trucks (1500-2500) use conventional 20/50 or 10/30, respectively. It has a lot to do with the duty cycle of that particular engine. My GMC manual says 5000 miles, but when I take it to the Dealer, which I have a service contract with (I have not paid a dime out of pocket for any maintenance since I bought it) the sticker always comes out to every 3 Mos. /3000 miles. I guess, since it's free and I don't have to mess with it, I'll take it in every week! It's kind of the same as the MSRP. It is the Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price. The Sticker on my truck was $48,000..I got it for $500 over the dealer's invoice. I paid $30,000 cash for it. Though technically not an employee, I have done some contract work for them, so I got an employee discount. I asked about putting synthetic in, they told me it be $60 + the cost to "flush" the engine of the regular oil. I declined and stuck with the good old dinosaur blood.

Of course they are, but 3000 Vs 10000 come on, That's a huge difference.

Do VWs run synthetic?