New Master Cylinder?

Is anyone using a newer non stock master cylinder/booster? I have the stock booster and MC but would like to update/upgrade rather than rebuild the stock set up. Does anyone know if anything is a direct fit? or can fit with modifications?

Anyone?

not sure if this is too late, but I used a 68 Chevelle dual master cylinder with matching GM brake booster. Almost a direct bolt on.

Thanks for the help. I bought a booster and MC off ebay and it was also almost a direct bolt in. I had to flip the stock power brake bracket upside down and cut some off it off and then drill a hole about an inch above the original push rod hole to make it work.

I went with a 7" or 8" booster to make room for my clutch master cylinder. It's still a tight fit. I hate how far it sticks out but it'll have to do

No a very good picture. And that was before it was full mounted. Just test fitting it. I also painted the booster black. I don't like that gold zinc plated crap.

i still drool everytime i see that block Robert

i drool as well!! Looks awesome.

Thanks guys. It needs a good cleaning. There has been so much cutting, welding and grinding around it it's filthy. I can't wait to pull it out of the garage under its own power, stop at the water hose and give the damn thing a bath, then take her on her maiden voyage

i just noticed your new master cylinder... call me what ever you want but, does that one have two lines out instead of one like stock? i kinda want to see if i can find a new deal with two lines out, one to the back and one to the front... can anyone point me anywhere? i'm not the biggest fan of the whole one line thing but i'll deal with it for a while haha

Yes, it is a dual chamber master cylinder. One goes to the back and one to the front. I got mine off ebay combo master cylinder and booster for like $170??? Which I thought was a decent deal.

I had to flip the stock power brake bracket upside down and cut some off it off and then drill a hole about an inch above the original push rod hole to make it work.

It's really a super easy swap. And since I ran all new brake lines it wasn't a big deal. What you can do is just take the line going back from the junction block and run that line to the rear chamber of the MC and then plug that port in the block and run that front line to the front chamber of the MC. I've never had to do that but it sounds pretty easy

Another note, I put off brake lines and fuel lines for so long because all I heard was horror stories and how tedious and boring it is. Not true, get a good bender, get a good cutter, and get a good flaring tool and it's pretty damn easy. I bought the kit from Ames and the fuel line was almost a direct bolt in but the brake line had pieces I didn't use and other pieces I had to modify to make work on my car. They don't give you instructions so I had no clue how to run the stock brake lines so I just used the long line from the back and bought more tubing for the front and made it myself. Not hard at all. Takes some engineering in your head to figure out which bend needs to go where and some test fitting but I love that kind of stuff.

man thats exactly what i wanted to hear haha thanks Robert! I'll start looking into that. I'm mostly distracted with my rust issues in the floor and back of the roof corners right now, but yeah. This should work out nicely

I think I ditched the pedal connector deal that came with the booster and MC and bought some "rod links" and connected it with that. I think it's 3/8 fine thread. Or maybe it's 5/16. I don't remember but I know it's fine thread. I think it's 5/16. 3/8 sounds too big

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Zinc-8-Brake-Booster-Master-Cylinder-Chevelle-Caprice_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53dd95ca66QQitemZ360199866982QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

That looks like the one I got. You can probably use a larger diameter booster so it won't stick out as far as mine but I needed the space for my clutch MC. Measure the distance between the bolts on your stock MC and make sure you get one that has the same bolt pattern. I think one is a wide pattern and one is small like ours.

Surprisingly a simple mod. I think the added safety is well worth it

Oh yeah, Mine didn't come with the proportioning valve and all that crap either. You don't need that crap on a drum/drum car. I think I paid $180 or $170 for my set up. And that zinc plated crap wasn't cutting it so I painted it black

Straight up man. I'll have to check out my set up. Thats something i really want to do. Ha i kinda like the Zink plated stuff it would look cleaner in my screwed up engine bay haha. It seems pretty simple tho, thanks for the help

I don't know I just don't like plated crap. That's why I have as little chrome as I could under the hood

anything would look better under my hood then it does right now. when i'm done with the bodywork and everything else i'll work on cleanin the engine up. its been rebuild recent enough it runs like a babe it just needs to get out and drive a bit

Get on it! You don't want to end up like me with your car in pieces for 2 years haha

i'm tryin! haha i remember my El Camino was in the garage in pieces for two years and i didn't go nearly as deep as this car. But i also didn't know crap about cars yet haha

When you have a car in pieces you better learn that stuff fast. That's how I learned

true that. i learned pretty quick for only being 14 at the time

That's how you learn. I learned everything I know on my own or from forums

this is actually the first forum i've ever used haha. other then that it was all my learning the hard way. how many 15 year old kids can say that they bought a nice spray gun for doing auto paint? top loading gravity fed like Cobalt gun haha.

Not a lot. Stay with it